Welcoming Home a New Bunny


Written & Submitted by: Julie C. Bond, M.S., Animal Behaviorist

Four beautiful baby bunnies were born last month in my nephew’s preschool classroom. All the new babies have been spoken for and will be going to their new homes shortly.

Seeing those eager children holding those baby bunnies, reminded me that they might not be the only kids receiving rabbits as pets this Spring.  While rabbits can and do make wonderful pets, their care is more complex than many new rabbit owners at first realize.  Rabbits do not survive and thrive on carrots alone!

There are several different breeds of rabbit readily available. Whether you choose a Lop, Miniature, Angora, etc., you can expect your rabbit to live for 5-10 years with some rabbits living as long as 15 years! Many people are surprised to learn that rabbits can be litter box trained just like cats. They are tidy by nature, generally non-aggressive, and quiet—all qualities which make them desirable house pets for many living situations.

Rabbits are highly social creatures and will reproduce very successfully from a relatively young age; by 5-10 months of age, male and female bunnies are of breeding age. Pet rabbits not intended for breeding should be neutered any time after 5 months of age. Males of some rabbit breeds may become aggressive and spray urine to mark their territories if left un-neutered. Spaying female rabbits will prevent uterine cancer (a very common disease in rabbits) as well as reduce territorial aggression.

Rabbits can be housed indoors or outside. Rabbits that are kept strictly indoors should be confined in a suitable enclosure if their activities cannot be monitored. You don’t want to leave a rabbit alone in a room unsupervised as they can get into mischief, chewing electrical cords and furniture, nibbling potentially toxic plants, etc. Instead, provide a large wire cage and cover half the floor with either towels or Plexiglas to prevent sores on the feet. You can use a water bottle or ceramic bowl to provide the rabbit with fresh water, a separate ceramic bowl for food, and a litter box. If your rabbit has already shown a preference for one area of your house for its bathroom habits, it would be wise to place a litter box in this location as well. You can even place some of the rabbit’s fecal pellets in the litter box to encourage them to use it. If you are housing your rabbit outdoors, you will want to provide all of the above plus a shady area to escape the heat or rain and a den to sleep in and use to hide in when frightened. It is particularly important for rabbits housed outdoors to have an area they can retreat to if scared; many unnecessary injuries result from rabbits trying to escape from their cages to avoid predators (dogs, cats, large birds, etc.).

It is extremely important to handle your rabbit daily and socialize it to all the members of your family. Rabbits raised with dogs and cats can learn to get along amicably. This does not mean you will want to leave your rabbit alone in a room with other pets. On the contrary, you will want to be present to supervise their interactions. However, many cats and dogs find rabbits to be wonderful companions and will groom them and rest quietly with them. Do be cautious, about introducing a rabbit into a home with a highly predatory dog or cat. Certain dog breeds (terriers for example) are quite predatory with regard to any small, rodent like animal and are thus not to be trusted alone around rabbits. 

It is particularly important to teach children the proper way to handle a rabbit. Rabbits should never be picked up by their ears or legs. Most injuries occur in rabbits when they are picked up the wrong way. Fractures, dislocations of the back, and spinal cord damage are all injuries which may result from improper handling. The best method for picking up a rabbit involves sliding your hand underneath its body and grasping both front legs between your fingers. Place your other hand under the rear end so you can provide the rabbit with full support as you bring him closer to your body. If the rabbit struggles or begins to kick out with its back legs (behaviors which can potentially cause severe back injuries), release it, give it a chance to relax, and try again.

Contrary to popular belief, rabbits cannot live on carrots alone. Their diet should include commercially available rabbit pellets, hay, and fresh vegetables. Rabbit pellets should be purchased in small quantities and stored in the refrigerator or a cool, dry place to prevent them from going rancid. Most pellets can also be frozen to maintain their freshness. A limited amount of pellets should be fed daily (see the package for specific feeding directions based on the body weight and age of your rabbit). You do not want to overfeed your rabbit with pellets as this can lead to obesity, heart disease, and chronic diarrhea. It is also important to provide loose oat or grass hay to your rabbit on a daily basis in unlimited amounts. Hay is fiber rich and promotes normal digestion and prevents hairballs. Hay must be stored in a cool, dry place and you will want to discard any wet hay or hay that doesn’t smell fresh.  

You will want to avoid alfalfa hay for your rabbit, especially if you are using rabbit pellets which already have a high quantity of alfalfa in them. Too much alfalfa means too much calcium and too many carbohydrates which can lead to more physical problems. A mixture of fresh foods is also necessary to the health of your rabbit. Rabbits enjoy carrots (including the leafy tops), kale, collard greens, broccoli (including the leaves), bok choy, spinach, parsley, and romaine lettuce. Do not give your rabbit iceberg lettuce as it provides no nutritional value. Make sure your rabbit receives three types of leafy greens daily. Treats such as strawberries, apples, pears, melons, and whole grain bread can be given in small amounts daily. Bananas and dried fruits can also be given as treats but in even smaller amounts.  

Avoid giving your rabbit sugary or salty snack foods or breakfast cereals. If you are feeding a well-rounded diet, vitamin supplements are unnecessary. Some owners like providing salt licks for their rabbits. These are generally not needed but may provide a good chewing surface for rabbits prone to gnawing on their cages or items within them.

Finally, many owners are surprised (and disgusted) to discover that their pet rabbits eat some of their own feces every day. If you look closely, these droppings are different from their usual stools and actually provide the rabbit with necessary protein, vitamins, and minerals. Often, you may not see your rabbit engaging in this behavior as it usually occurs in the early morning hours or very late at night.

While some rabbit breeds require daily brushing, most breeds are very easy to maintain with little effort on the owner’s part. Nail trims are necessary on a regular basis as long nails can catch on fabric and wire and lead to painful scratches on their owners. You will want to take your rabbit to see your veterinarian for nail trims (and teeth trims if your rabbit has overgrown incisors) on a regular basis.

So, while rabbits do make wonderful pets, their unique care can pose quite a challenge to the unprepared owner. If you plan on bringing one home for your family this Spring, be sure you have all the supplies ready and waiting for your new arrival.